Seasonal Alert

The season has changed and cooler weather has arrived.  Here’s what you need to know about maintaining your lawn and landscape for this time of year.

 

Watering Requirements

  • Adjust your irrigation system at this time, as cooler temperatures will decrease your landscape’s watering needs. Irrigation systems should be adjusted to a maximum of one day per week beginning with the end of daylight savings time (November 6, 2011) as restricted by the St. Johns Water Management District. Irrigate annual flower plantings separately as needed to avoid overwatering the rest of your landscape. 

Protecting Your Landscape

  • Add organic matter to landscape beds and replace soil in planters when planting winter annual flowers to keep soil nutrient levels high.
  • Also add mulch to the beds to help insulate the plants from cold weather.
  • Cover or move indoors cold sensitive plants.
  • Reduce nitrogen fertilizer and irrigate only as needed to discourage fungal growth in your lawn. Lawns that develop brown patch fungus problems this time of year will require fungicide for control.

Improving your Landscape

  • Continue regular mowing to discourage weeds from spreading and to pick up fallen leaves.
  • Keep the lawn mower blade sharp. Torn grass blades from a dull mower blade will not recover, affecting the appearance of the lawn for longer periods of time during the fall and winter due to slower grass growth.
  • Apply fertilizer that contains potassium to enhance root growth that occurs during cooler months.
  • Apply weed control to winter annual weeds as necessary. Keep weeds controlled in beds to reduce seeds from spreading into lawn areas. A thick layer of mulch will help suppress weed growth while enhancing aesthetic value.
  • Continue light pruning of plants, but delay heavy pruning until the spring, when the threat of freezing weather has ended.
  • Move or install small trees and shrubs in the landscape at this time, when they will not suffer from heat stress.
  • Install new sod in areas of the lawn that have declined from drought, chinch bugs or noxious weed infestations.

If you need help with any of these cool season activities, just let us know.  We will be happy to help.  (904) 724-9114 or info@turfmastersjax.com

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Soil Testing

Turf-masters Technicians are great at making your grounds look their best. We are not only concerned with what you can see today, but with the factors that control how your landscape will look in the future.    

 

 Soil Testing                                 

Overview                                                                                                       

A simple soil test will measure the pH of your soil, showing whether it is acidic or alkaline. More thorough tests also measure the soil salinity and the amount and availability of nutrients a soil contains that your plants need to grow.  

Soil pH

The most important thing a test can reveal is the pH of soil. The pH scale measures the acidity or alkalinity of soil. The scale runs from 0, the most acidic, to 14, the most alkaline. The pH of water, 7, is neutral. Micronutrients–including copper, iron, manganese and zinc–are less available to plants when the pH of a soil rises above 6.5. Slightly acidic soil of 6.1 to 6.9 is best for most flowers, shrubs, vegetables and turf grasses. Adding lime raises soil pH; adding sulfur lowers it. If you raise the soil pH above the tolerance level of your plants, they may be unable to extract nutrients they need to grow. Soil testing can help you decide which and how much of these ingredients are necessary to properly amend your soil.

Soils Change

Adding compost, manure or fertilizer can change your soil. So can drought, erosion, and heavy rainfall. These can all effect the amount and availability of nutrients that plants need to grow, flower and fruit. A full test of soil includes a measure of soil pH plus the amount of calcium, magnesium and phosphorous that is available to your plants. You need to know how much of these essential micronutrients your soil has if you are to accurately correct deficiencies.

How and What to Test

Test your soil at least once every three years. Collect soil samples for testing any time of year. You do not have to wait until you are ready to plant. Take separate samples of soils that you use to grow flowers and lawns. If you are growing plants in different types of soils, especially clay or sand, take separate samples of each type of soil. Take separate samples if the soils are a different color. The plants in each of these soils may have different problems; you may need to amend the soils in separate ways.  

You need to know how much of these essential micronutrients your soil has if you are to accurately correct deficiencies.

Take Advantage of This Service Now

We are offering Soil Testing for $45. We will come out and collect the sample, package the sample, and have it tested by one of the state’s laboratories. Once we have received the results back we will contact you to discuss the findings and our recommendations.

We also offer Turf Aerating, Lime applications, and many more valuable services.

Protect your investment, beautify your property, repair your lawn, and protect the lawn from insects and disease. Turf-masters can do this for you.

Call or Click: We’re ready to help.

(904) 724-9114 or www.turfmastersjax.com

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Fall weed control for your north Florida lawn

By Larry Williams, UF/IFAS Extension Agent, Okaloosa County

The cycle of life is ending and beginning for many lawn weeds during the fall here in North Florida.

Warm season or summer annual weeds like crabgrass, spurge and knotweed have completed about eighty five to ninety percent of their lifetime as we begin the month of October. By now they’re the dominant weeds in many yards. They have already done almost all the damage they’re going to do. They have reached maturity and produced hundreds if not thousands of seeds. They’re just waiting for the first heavy frost of late fall or early winter to go to weed heaven or somewhere else. Most people wait too late to ask about controlling these weeds.

Basically, this late in the year, it’s too late to bother with herbicides to control these summer annual weeds.  

The best time to control weeds is while they’re young and tender and before they have had the opportunity to reproduce. This includes cool season or winter annual weeds that are about to germinate.

Even though you may have missed the best time to control the summer annual weeds for this year, you’re right on time for controlling winter annual weeds. 

Chickweed

Timing of the herbicide application is of utmost importance in controlling winter weeds that are about to sprout in home lawns all over north Florida. Common winter weeds that germinate in the fall and early winter include annual bluegrass, chickweed, henbit, hop clover, lawn burweed and Carolina geranium.

These and other winter annual weeds germinate from seeds during fall as the soil temperature cools and the day length shortens. The little seedlings usually go unnoticed at this time but continue to slowly grow through the colder winter months. Approaching spring, as the day length becomes longer and the soil temperature warms, all of these previously inconspicuous weeds put on a growth spurt.

Control measures should be attempted before the weeds go to seed.

If you intend to use a preemergence herbicide, apply it during October when nighttime temperatures drop to 55° to 60°F for several consecutive days. This will be just before the weeds emerge. Proper timing is very important. 

For season-long weed control and based on what the product’s label reads, a second application may be required about nine weeks after the initial application. To activate some products, irrigation or rain may be necessary following application. Because many preemergence products may interfere with lawngrass seed germination, delay reseeding six to sixteen weeks after application. This applies to overseeding a lawn with ryegrass seed, also.

Make sure to follow all label directions and precautions when using any weed killer.

Or give Turf-masters a click or call and we’ll be happy to help you with all of your landscaping needs. info@turfmastersjax.com   (904) 724-9114

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Giant African Land Snails

 

Giant African Land Snails

Reported by the Department of Agriculture September 15, 2011

Tallahassee, FL – The Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services has positively identified a population of Giant African land snails (GALS) in Miami-Dade County. The Giant African land snail is one of the most damaging snails in the world because they consume at least 500 different types of plants, can cause structural damage to plaster and stucco, and can carry a parasitic nematode that can lead to meningitis in humans. 

“Florida faces constant challenges from invasive pests and diseases that arrive through cargo, travelers’ luggage, air currents, and plant and animal agricultural products,” said Agriculture Commissioner Adam Putnam. “Enlisting the help of the public in the early detection of these pests and diseases is critical to containing and ultimately eradicating them in our state.”

The Giant African land snail, Achatina fulica, is one of the largest land snails in the world, growing up to eight inches in length and more than four inches in diameter. When full grown, the snail’s brownish shell consists of seven to nine whorls (spirals) that cover at least half the length of its long and greatly swollen body whorl (see photo below).

Each snail can live as long as nine years and contains both female and male reproductive organs. After a single mating session, each snail can produce 100 to 400 eggs. In a typical year, every mated adult lays about 1,200 eggs.

Achatina fulica is originally from East Africa and has established itself throughout the Indo-Pacific Basin, including the Hawaiian Islands. This pest has also been introduced into the Caribbean islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe with recent detections in Saint Lucia and Barbados.

The last reported outbreak and eradication of the Giant African land snail in Florida occurred in 1966 when a boy smuggled three Giant African land snails into Miami as pets.  The boy’s grandmother released the snails into her garden and seven years later, more than 18,000 snails were found costing more than $1 million and taking an additional 10 years to successfully eradicate this pest from Florida.  This is the only known successful giant African land snail eradication program.

Giant African land snails are illegal to import into the United States without a permit and currently no permits have been issued.  Anyone who believes they may have seen a Giant African land snail or signs of its presence should call the Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services toll-free at 888-397-1517 to make arrangements to have the snail collected.  To preserve the snail sample, Floridians should use gloves to put the snail in a zip lock bag, seal it and place it in a bucket or plastic container. They are advised not to release or give these samples away.

Posted in Pest of the Month | 2 Comments

Mosquitos

Take the Bite

Out of Your Backyard

We all want to enjoy the great outdoors, but it’s no fun when you’re pestered by biting mosquitoes, some of which can carry disease. Here are some easy steps you can take to help reduce conditions in your yard that breed these pests. Mosquitoes lay eggs in still, standing water. These eggs hatch into larvae, which turn into biting adults. This whole process from egg to adult might take only seven days! Even a teaspoon of water is enough for pests to breed. That’s why it’s important to tip over items that collect water and prevent standing water from accumulating around your home.

Empty water regularly from:

 Buckets, pails and watering cans

 Planter saucers and flower pots

 Candles and candle holders

 Pet dishes

 Children’s toys

 Ashtrays

Store these items indoors when not in use and change water twice weekly in:

 Bird baths

 Fountains

 Wading pools

Get rid of

 Old tires

 Unused and broken toys

 Trash items

Turn over larger items that collect water or store these items indoors:

 Kiddie pools

 Canoes

 Wheel barrels and garden carts

 Wagons

Tighten up sagging tarps to prevent water from collecting in folds and low areas. Tarps may cover:

 Woodpiles

 Boats

 Jet skis

 Pools

 Patio furniture

 Outdoor grills

Prevent water from collecting by:

 Cleaning gutters of leaves and debris

 Angling downspouts downward, away from the house

 Not using corrugated plastic tubing for downspouts: The grooves hold enough water to breed mosquitoes

 Fixing leaky outdoor faucets

 Eliminating puddles from air conditioning unit condensation

 Making sure rain barrels have tight fitting lids

 Keeping lids on trash cans

Engage in best practices like:

 Maintaining your swimming pool with proper chlorine and water circulation.

 Not overwatering your landscaping.

Heavy mulch watered to saturation in damp, dark areas is an ideal spot for mosquito breeding.

 Aerating ornamental ponds or stocking them with fish that eat mosquito larvae.

 Re-grading low areas to prevent water from collecting on your property. For example, filling tire ruts near driveways and roads with gravel.

Hire a professional to:

 Treat areas like fish ponds, drain tiles, catch basins, and tree hollows and niches with insect growth regulator pellets or granules to keep them from becoming breeding sites.

 Apply a barrier spray during warm months to knock down adult mosquitoes and allow you to enjoy a nearly bite-free outdoor experience.

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Water Savings

Great News for the Home Lawn and Gardener!

Double Even Triple The Days Between Required Watering and Enjoy The Benefits Of Proper Moisture Management!

Minimize Drought Stress Control or Eliminate Dry Spots Enhance Nutrient & Pesticide Efficiency
Improve Seed Germination & Transplant Establishment Reduce Water Bills Increase Plant Yields
Extend Flower LifeHydretain is a revolutionary new chemistry that allows homeowners to water up to 50% less and maintain healthy, great looking plants and turf.

After 9 years of commercial use by golf courses, nurseries, sod farms and top landscapers, Hydretain is now available to homeowners.

   


  

Hydretain is patented blend of liquid humectant and hygroscopic compounds that attract and hold moisture like tiny water magnets within soil. Hydretain manages available soil moisture, extending watering intervals of indoor and outdoor plants, flowers, vegetables, shrubs, trees and grasses by as much as 2 to 3 times. Each application reduces watering for up to 3 months New & Existing Lawns, Flower Beds, Trees, Shrubs & Vegetable Gardens…

 

 
Drought or Not – Hydretain Provides Benefits Throughout The Growing Season

 

Just like our bodies plants need a continual source of water to grow and remain healthy. Even during times of normal rainfall and in between scheduled waterings plants can suffer from a lack of sufficient water, known as “drought stress”. Unfortunately by the time the first visible sign of drought stress appears plants’ and turf grasses’ internal processes (photosynthesis, carbohydrate translocation, cell differentiation, cell elongation, & cell division) have ceased. This complete shutdown of the physiological processes results in weak, under-developed plants, that are prone to diseases, nutrient deficiencies, shallow roots, reduced flowering and poor crop yields. Ultimately the overall quality of your plants and lawn suffers.Hydretain is the solution. Hydretain manages root zone moisture, making the most efficient use of applied water, rain, etc.   

  

 

 

 
 

 
 
 

Its simple mechanism protects turf and plants from the harmful effects of drought stress, reducing disease pressure and root shrinkage. Hydretain will result in healthy, disease resistant plants that will improve the overall quality of your lawn, landscaping and vegetable gardens.
Hydretain does not hold excess water in the root zone and therefore does not promote disease. It also will not change the water holding capacity or percolation of the soil matrix (except in the case of severely hydrophobic soils as above).

  

Hydretain is not a wetting agent, polymer, penetrant, or antitranspirant. No other product has the ability to actually attract free water molecules and then release them through osmosis into the roots of your turf. It is a truly unique compound that has no equal.


Is Hydretain environmentally friendly?

 
 

Hydretain is all natural, made from food-grade materials and is fully biodegradable. It contains no phosphates, petrochemical derivatives or other toxic fractions, which may cause ground water runoff contamination.
Hydretain begins to break down in approximately 90 days. Re-application every 90 days allows Hydretain to build up in the soil profile providing even greater drought resistance with each application. 

  

  
 

Turf-masters Will be happy to schedule your Hydretain application.  The product more than pays for itself.  Lawn applications start as low as $62.00 and last up to three months.

Contact us today for a healthier lawn tommorow.  info@turfmastersjax.com or 904.724.9114

  

  

   

 

 

 

 

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Gray Leaf Spot

Gray leaf spot usually attacks St. Augustinegrass, but it can also attack centipede. It is a summer disease caused by a fungus and is common in long periods of hot, humid weather. Newly sprigged or rapidly growing grass is more susceptible than well-established grass. Too much nitrogen fertilizer can make the disease more severe.

The disease causes irregular gray, dirty-yellow, or ash-colored spots with brown, purple, or water-soaked borders on leaf blades. Spots may be covered with gray mold in warm, humid weather. Lesions may occur on stems, spikes, and leaves. A yellow halo or general chlorosis may occur around some spots.

The disease is usually noticed first in shaded damp areas. In heavy areas, the grass may have a burned appearance.

Seldom will this disease kill an entire lawn but it sure is ugly.

Fungus spores are spread by the wind, rain, irrigation water, lawn mowers, and animals.

Control: Avoid excessive nitrogen (water-soluble) fertilization in summer. Water in the day  or early morning so foliage will not stay wet overnight. Fungicides recommended include thiophanate-methyl, trifloxystrobin, clorothalonil, and mancozeb.

 

 

 

 

If you have a lawn or landscape problem, we’re ready to help.  Call us at (904) 724-9114 or email us at info@turfmastersjax.com

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Worms Are On The Way

SOD WEBWORMS

The Tropical Sod Webworm, Herpetogramma phaeopterali, is the most common caterpillar attacking turfgrass. They attack all grasses, but seem to prefer Crabgrass and St. Augustinegrass to Bahiagrass when feeding on our Florida lawns. Sod webworms are usually not a problem in the Jacksonville area of until July and have peak feeding periods in August and September. Their damage decreases in the fall and ends once cold weather arrives. Injured grass has notches chewed along the sides of the blades or is eaten back unevenly. They feed only at night and rest in a curled position near green fecal matter on the soil surface during the day. The life cycle requires five to six weeks and there are several generations per year.

Identification

Probably the first thing you will notice when Sod Webworms have arrived is that it seems someone has entered your lawn while you were sleeping and scalped it in areas with a weed eater. It is not uncommon to go to bed at night with the lawn in good condition only to wake up to patches of the lawn missing grass blades in the morning. You may also have noticed several weeks earlier that there were some small brown moths flying through the shady areas of your grass or emerging from your shrubs.

Sod Webworm Adult Moth

The larvae and the adult moths are the most noticeable stages of this pest. The larvae are the only stage that causes damage. They are 3/4″ long when mature and have translucent bodies that appear greenish from a diet of green grass blades. The moths have brown colored wings and measure about 3/4″ long.

Sod Webworm Larvae

Sod Webworm Control

Sod Webworms usually cause only temporary cosmetic damage to our turfgrasses and do not by themselves cause any permanent damage. Turfgrass can receive permanent drought damage in the hot summer months if the grass does not receive adequate moisture during the time of Sod Webworm feeding. This type of damage would also occur if the grass were cut too short during a hot, dry period. Sod webworm damage cannot be prevented. However Sod Webworms are easy to control with the proper application of many available insecticides once the worms begin feeding and the damage usually is not noticeable following a couple of weeks of growth after treatment.

The larval stage of the insect is the only stage that can be controlled and there must be larvae feeding before an insecticide can be applied. The presence of moths doesn’t necessarily indicate that there is worm damage or that there will be worm damage. Many times the moths in someone’s lawn will lay eggs in a neighbor’s lawn or the eggs won’t develop into worms. One of the benefits of being a Turf-master customer is that if you receive Sod Webworm damage between one of our regularly scheduled services, we will return and treat at no extra charge. Simply give us a call!  If you are not a current customer, give us a call and we will inspect your lawn for free and explain your options.

 info@turfmastersjax.com 

(904) 724-9114

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Happy Birthday America!

Hoping everyone has a safe and festive 4th of July!

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Hydrangea (How to change their Color)

Hydrangea Flowers
How to Manipulate Hydrangea Color
Manipulating the color of your hydrangea blooms through use of specific elements is one of the most intriguing aspects of hydrangea gardening. Although seemingly magical, the chemistry of your soil gives a somewhat predictable measure of hydrangea color change.

Hydrangea flower clusters can vary in color in shades of blue hydrageas, pink hydrangeas, reddish-wine hydrangeas, purple hydrangeas, mauve hydrangeas, and several shades in between. Flower clusters of the hydrangea macrophylla are available in two forms: the garden hortensias or “mop-headed” hydrangea types and the lacecap hydrangea with flat flower heads. The hortensias consist of almost entirely sterile flowers that are arranged into pom-pom like hydrangea balls. Lacecap hydrangeas, on the other hand, have a flat center made up of fertile flowers and larger, colorful sterile hydrangea flowers on the outer edge.

The names of many hydrangeas (e.g. ‘Nikko blue’ and ‘Forever Pink’) can be somewhat deceiving. A blue hydrangea given certain conditions will produce pink or mauve hydrangea flowers, while a pink hydrangea given the right nutrients will be blue or purple hydrangea.

hydrangea color chart respective to hydrangea soil pHThere are two factors that affect flower color of hydrangeas: the amount of light the plant receives and the pH of the soil. Although hydrangea macrophylla can tolerate full sun, they will prefer and thrive in partial shade. Shade helps maintain the individual hydragea flower petals, keeping them from burning in the hot afternoon sun. If grown in sufficient shade, the hydrangea flowers will look good all summer long and will begin changing texture and color in the fall..

It is also interesting to note that varying degrees of shade will also affect flower hydrangea color. Two identical hydrangea plants, planted right next to each other, can have different flower tones relative to the degrees of shade/light they receive.

The main influence that affects flower hydrangea color is soil pH, which is a measure of the soil’s acidity. The pH scale is from 0 to 14. Seven is the midpoint and is neutral. PH levels above 7 indicate alkalinity, while those below 7 represent increasing degrees of acidity. The average garden soil is slightly acidic in the range from 5.5 to 6.5. The pH range of 4.5 to 7.5 is not uncommon in garden soils. Blue hydrangeas require a highly acid soil, while pink hydrangeas are produced in a neutral or slightly acid soil.

Again, even the variety ‘Nikko blue’ hydrangea if planted in a neutral soil will produce pink hydrangea flowers. At a pH of 4.5, the color will be deep, vivid blue hydrangea, but as the pH scale goes upward toward neutral, the color will begin to change from blue to purple, from purple to mauve, and from mauve to pink.

A starting point to manipulating hydrangea flower color is to know exactly what you soil pH is. Your local cooperative extension service or garden center may be able to instruct you on this procedure. The results of this test will let you know exactly how acid or alkaline your soil is. If you’re growing hydrangeas in two different soils, you may want to check each soil type for varying pH levels.

hydrangea field include white hydrangeas, purple hydrangeas, blue hydranges, and antique hydrangeas.If you have a blue hydrangea, and would it to have lavender to pink hydrangea flowers, you need to raise the pH or alkalinity in your soil. Adding lime to your soil can do this. Aluminum is the element that is responsible for the blue hydrangea color. Aluminum, though, becomes more unavailable to the plant as the soil pH becomes closer to neutral. By adding lime to your soil, your soil becomes more alkaline, and hence the color of your hydrangea can change from blue to varying degrees of pink. In general, 4 ounces of lime around the base of your hydrangea plant can change the pH of your soil by one point.

You can add lime in four-ounce increments until you reach the color of pink you desire. You need to try and raise your pH to 6.5. Depending on your soil texture and how acid your soil was to begin with, this can be a long process, taking up to 2 growing seasons if you have an extremely acid soil high in organic matter. Adding nitrogen and phosphorus also aids in preventing the absorption of aluminum and gives a good, clear pink hydrangea color.

Conversely, if you have a pink hydrangea and would like to make it blue or purple, you need to lower the pH to make the soil more acid. This can be done by adding aluminum sulfate to the soil around the base of your plant. Aluminum sulfate is available at most garden centers. Follow the label directions carefully and don’t overdo it. In addition, you do not want to add nitrogen or phosphorus to your soil, as these elements help promote pink colors. Since many general-purpose fertilizers contain these elements in large amounts, it is better to add single-element fertilizers such as muriate and potash.

Remember that hydrangea color changes will not occur overnight, and are sometimes not predictable. The plants genetics and soil both play a part in manipulating its flower color. It can be very exciting watching the results of your soil amendment and the degrees of color change.

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