January & February Landscape TO-DO List:

Flowers

> Hold on to poinsettias if you intend to plant them in the landscape after the cold weather is past. March is typically a safe planting month.

> Deadhead (remove old flowers) pansies and snapdragons to keep them blooming. If petunias start looking leggy, prune back hard and fertilize to force new growth.

> Cold sensitive bedding plants can be covered with leaves, pine straw, blankets, or row covers for protection. If using plastic, make sure to remove during warm sunny days and keep plastic from touching plants to avoid damage.

 

Fruits and Nuts

> Prune grapes in January or February. For muscadines, prune all branches that are less than 3/16” in diameter, leaving 2 to 3 buds per spur. Remove most of the spurs located at the top of the trunk to prevent crowding and bushiness.

> Now is the time to prune deciduous fruit trees. There are different training methods depending on the type of tree. The University of Florida has more info on pruning and training at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg345.

> Harvest citrus that are ripe before the freeze if temperatures are going to drop below 28°F for at least 4 hours. If fruit are not ripe, leave on the tree because citrus will not ripen once picked.

> If citrus scab has been a problem in the past, February is the time to apply a copper fungicide as new leaves emerge and 2/3 of the blossoms have dropped.

> Prior to a severe freeze, protect graft unions of young citrus by banking clean sand around the trunk just above the graft union.

> Now is the time to purchase and plant bare root fruit trees like pears and plums.

> Fertilize fruit trees in mid-February. For most fruit, use a citrus blend or peach/pecan special.

 

Lawns

> Service your lawnmower. Clean the mower, sharpen the blades, drain and replace the oil, drain or use up the gasoline and grease all fittings. Please remove the wire to your plug before working on your mower.

> Even though lawns may be brown, if there is little to no rain for several weeks, lawns may need supplemental water. The Irrigation Ordinance allows watering once per week if needed. Watering days for odd # addresses are Saturday and even addresses on Sunday.

> Pull cool season weeds like chickweed or Asiatic hawksbeard if they are going to seed. If warm season weeds were a problem last year, be prepared to treat before seeds germinate. Germination is based on soil temperatures, so treatment time can vary from mid-February to early March. Treat when day temperatures reach 65 to 70 F for 4 or 5 consecutive days. This usually is when azaleas and dogwoods are blooming.

 

Trees & Shrubs

> It’s time to prune deciduous plants, if needed. Remove rubbing branches, diseased or dead branches, and suckers from the base. Don’t prune spring flowering shrubs or trees until after bloom. Examples include: azalea, redbud, Japanese magnolia, and spirea.

> Prune roses and strip any remaining leaves from plants to reduce disease problems.

> Fertilize young ornamental plants in late-February or March with a specialty or 16-0-16 type fertilizer.

Posted in Irrigation, Lawn, Lawn Tip of the Month, Plant Care, Weeds | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

The beauty of pollination.

The beauty of pollination. (A short video)

Nature at Work

This is an extraordinary video.  You’ll be glad you took the time to watch it.

Posted in Insects | Leave a comment

“Great things

“Great things are not done by impulse, but by a series of small things brought together.”
- Vincent Van Gogh

Posted in Quotes | Leave a comment

From our Family to Yours — Merry Christmas

Posted in Holiday | Tagged | Leave a comment

Naked Backflows…

Florida Irrigation and Sprinkler Systems – Backflow device

 

This is a backflow devise for an irrigation system.

The backflow device keeps contaminated water from reentering your irrigation, or sprinkler system’s water supply; thus prevent our drinking water from becoming contaminated.

This particular backflow is naked. We highly recommend insulating your backflow to prevent freeze damage. It’s a simple process requiring foam wrapping.

 

Just call us if we can be of assistance.

Don’t let your backflow go naked another day!

Posted in Irrigation, Lawn | Leave a comment

We’d like to take a moment to thank…

our customers, employees and vendors for being a part of Turf-masters.

 

Your support is greatly appreciated!

Posted in Holiday | Leave a comment

Redbay Killers are Coming

The Redbay ambrosia beetle (Xyleborus glabratus) is a very small (about 2 mm in length), dark brown to black, cylinder-shaped beetle, similar to other ambrosia beetles found in Florida. The Redbay ambrosia beetle is native to India, Japan, Myanmar, and Taiwan and is believed to have been introduced into Georgia in 2002 by infested packing materials, such as wooden crates and pallets.   

 

                                                                                   

 

Ambrosia beetles are known for attacking various woody plants, causing some limb and stem dieback. There are at least 30 species of ambrosia beetles in Florida, several of which are non-native. Typically ambrosia beetles have a symbiotic relationship with a fungus, and the beetles carry fungal spores on their bodies.

When the beetles bore into a tree, the fungal spores infect the tree. The fungus grows inside the tree, disrupting the flow of water and nutrients. The fungus grows on the living wood of the tree, and the Redbay ambrosia beetle adults and larvae feed on the fungus. Most ambrosia beetles attack trees and shrubs that are stressed, dying, or dead. Plant stress may be the result of drought, flooding, freezing temperature damage, wind damage, or very poor cultural practices. Of the many ambrosia beetle species in Florida, several species attack avocado trees, but do not generally cause the entire tree to die. In contrast, the Redbay ambrosia beetle attacks healthy trees. The Redbay ambrosia beetle and its associated fungus (which causes laurel wilt disease) can cause death of the entire tree.

The Redbay ambrosia beetle appears to be most attracted to woody plants in the Lauraceae (laurel) family although there are reports in Asia of the beetle attacking some plant species in Fabaceae (peanut family) and Fagacea (Oak family). Florida has numerous species in the Lauraceae family; some of these are forest species, some of ornamental value, and one, avocado, is a major commercial fruit crop species. At present, the Florida avocado industry covers about 7,400 acres and is estimated to be worth about $13 million annually. Recent research in Florida has shown that avocado cultivars appear to vary in their susceptibility to the fungus that causes laurel wilt. Preliminary results to date suggest ‘Brogdon’, ‘Miguel’, ‘Donnie’, ‘Simmonds’, ‘Lula’, ‘Bernecker’, and ‘Monroe’ avocado trees were more susceptible to laurel wilt than ‘Reed’, ‘Choquette’, ‘Catalina’, ‘Florida Hass’, ‘Winter Mexican’, ‘Hass’ and ‘Hall’. Larger trees appear to be more affected by the laurel wilt pathogen than younger trees. Redbay ambrosia beetles are more attracted to physically wounded Redbay trees than to non-wounded trees. As a result, pruned avocado trees may be at greater risk of attack from this beetle than are non-pruned trees.

 

 

At present there are no registered fungicides for avocado that will control laurel wilt. Control of the Redbay ambrosia beetle is also very difficult. Adult beetles must be in the immediate area of aerial sprays to be controlled; detection of adult beetles involves monitoring traps and/or scouting groves; once adult beetles bore into the trees, contact insecticides are ineffective. Trees that have died (including the trunk) from an infestation should be burned, as chipping will not kill developing larvae, which remain as a source of new beetle infestations.

Source: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs379

Posted in Insects, Pest of the Month | Leave a comment

Seasonal Alert

The season has changed and cooler weather has arrived.  Here’s what you need to know about maintaining your lawn and landscape for this time of year.

 

Watering Requirements

  • Adjust your irrigation system at this time, as cooler temperatures will decrease your landscape’s watering needs. Irrigation systems should be adjusted to a maximum of one day per week beginning with the end of daylight savings time (November 6, 2011) as restricted by the St. Johns Water Management District. Irrigate annual flower plantings separately as needed to avoid overwatering the rest of your landscape. 

Protecting Your Landscape

  • Add organic matter to landscape beds and replace soil in planters when planting winter annual flowers to keep soil nutrient levels high.
  • Also add mulch to the beds to help insulate the plants from cold weather.
  • Cover or move indoors cold sensitive plants.
  • Reduce nitrogen fertilizer and irrigate only as needed to discourage fungal growth in your lawn. Lawns that develop brown patch fungus problems this time of year will require fungicide for control.

Improving your Landscape

  • Continue regular mowing to discourage weeds from spreading and to pick up fallen leaves.
  • Keep the lawn mower blade sharp. Torn grass blades from a dull mower blade will not recover, affecting the appearance of the lawn for longer periods of time during the fall and winter due to slower grass growth.
  • Apply fertilizer that contains potassium to enhance root growth that occurs during cooler months.
  • Apply weed control to winter annual weeds as necessary. Keep weeds controlled in beds to reduce seeds from spreading into lawn areas. A thick layer of mulch will help suppress weed growth while enhancing aesthetic value.
  • Continue light pruning of plants, but delay heavy pruning until the spring, when the threat of freezing weather has ended.
  • Move or install small trees and shrubs in the landscape at this time, when they will not suffer from heat stress.
  • Install new sod in areas of the lawn that have declined from drought, chinch bugs or noxious weed infestations.

If you need help with any of these cool season activities, just let us know.  We will be happy to help.  (904) 724-9114 or info@turfmastersjax.com

Posted in Lawn, Lawn Tip of the Month, Plant Care | Leave a comment

Soil Testing

Turf-masters Technicians are great at making your grounds look their best. We are not only concerned with what you can see today, but with the factors that control how your landscape will look in the future.    

 

 Soil Testing                                 

Overview                                                                                                       

A simple soil test will measure the pH of your soil, showing whether it is acidic or alkaline. More thorough tests also measure the soil salinity and the amount and availability of nutrients a soil contains that your plants need to grow.  

Soil pH

The most important thing a test can reveal is the pH of soil. The pH scale measures the acidity or alkalinity of soil. The scale runs from 0, the most acidic, to 14, the most alkaline. The pH of water, 7, is neutral. Micronutrients–including copper, iron, manganese and zinc–are less available to plants when the pH of a soil rises above 6.5. Slightly acidic soil of 6.1 to 6.9 is best for most flowers, shrubs, vegetables and turf grasses. Adding lime raises soil pH; adding sulfur lowers it. If you raise the soil pH above the tolerance level of your plants, they may be unable to extract nutrients they need to grow. Soil testing can help you decide which and how much of these ingredients are necessary to properly amend your soil.

Soils Change

Adding compost, manure or fertilizer can change your soil. So can drought, erosion, and heavy rainfall. These can all effect the amount and availability of nutrients that plants need to grow, flower and fruit. A full test of soil includes a measure of soil pH plus the amount of calcium, magnesium and phosphorous that is available to your plants. You need to know how much of these essential micronutrients your soil has if you are to accurately correct deficiencies.

How and What to Test

Test your soil at least once every three years. Collect soil samples for testing any time of year. You do not have to wait until you are ready to plant. Take separate samples of soils that you use to grow flowers and lawns. If you are growing plants in different types of soils, especially clay or sand, take separate samples of each type of soil. Take separate samples if the soils are a different color. The plants in each of these soils may have different problems; you may need to amend the soils in separate ways.  

You need to know how much of these essential micronutrients your soil has if you are to accurately correct deficiencies.

Take Advantage of This Service Now

We are offering Soil Testing for $45. We will come out and collect the sample, package the sample, and have it tested by one of the state’s laboratories. Once we have received the results back we will contact you to discuss the findings and our recommendations.

We also offer Turf Aerating, Lime applications, and many more valuable services.

Protect your investment, beautify your property, repair your lawn, and protect the lawn from insects and disease. Turf-masters can do this for you.

Call or Click: We’re ready to help.

(904) 724-9114 or www.turfmastersjax.com

Posted in Lawn, Lawn Tip of the Month, Plant Care | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Fall weed control for your north Florida lawn

By Larry Williams, UF/IFAS Extension Agent, Okaloosa County

The cycle of life is ending and beginning for many lawn weeds during the fall here in North Florida.

Warm season or summer annual weeds like crabgrass, spurge and knotweed have completed about eighty five to ninety percent of their lifetime as we begin the month of October. By now they’re the dominant weeds in many yards. They have already done almost all the damage they’re going to do. They have reached maturity and produced hundreds if not thousands of seeds. They’re just waiting for the first heavy frost of late fall or early winter to go to weed heaven or somewhere else. Most people wait too late to ask about controlling these weeds.

Basically, this late in the year, it’s too late to bother with herbicides to control these summer annual weeds.  

The best time to control weeds is while they’re young and tender and before they have had the opportunity to reproduce. This includes cool season or winter annual weeds that are about to germinate.

Even though you may have missed the best time to control the summer annual weeds for this year, you’re right on time for controlling winter annual weeds. 

Chickweed

Timing of the herbicide application is of utmost importance in controlling winter weeds that are about to sprout in home lawns all over north Florida. Common winter weeds that germinate in the fall and early winter include annual bluegrass, chickweed, henbit, hop clover, lawn burweed and Carolina geranium.

These and other winter annual weeds germinate from seeds during fall as the soil temperature cools and the day length shortens. The little seedlings usually go unnoticed at this time but continue to slowly grow through the colder winter months. Approaching spring, as the day length becomes longer and the soil temperature warms, all of these previously inconspicuous weeds put on a growth spurt.

Control measures should be attempted before the weeds go to seed.

If you intend to use a preemergence herbicide, apply it during October when nighttime temperatures drop to 55° to 60°F for several consecutive days. This will be just before the weeds emerge. Proper timing is very important. 

For season-long weed control and based on what the product’s label reads, a second application may be required about nine weeks after the initial application. To activate some products, irrigation or rain may be necessary following application. Because many preemergence products may interfere with lawngrass seed germination, delay reseeding six to sixteen weeks after application. This applies to overseeding a lawn with ryegrass seed, also.

Make sure to follow all label directions and precautions when using any weed killer.

Or give Turf-masters a click or call and we’ll be happy to help you with all of your landscaping needs. info@turfmastersjax.com   (904) 724-9114

Posted in Lawn Tip of the Month, Weeds | Leave a comment